Lima is a city that many travelers to Latin America overlook. While it may not be as picturesque as Rio or have the almost European feel of Buenos Aires, Lima has slowly been appearing on more tourists’ radar. If you are a first time visitor to South America, a veteran expat, or a digital nomad looking for a new place to set up shop, Lima may be the place you are looking for.
Why Lima?
For most tourists, Lima serves as a springboard to popular tourist spots like Machu Picchu, the Amazon rainforest, or Lake Titicaca. What the crowds of tourists miss is that Lima is a vibrant city of 10 million people with endless options for nightlife, culture, history and cuisine. It will take a stay of at least two months to really get a feel for what this city has to offer.
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Obviously Spanish is the most widely spoken language in Lima. English is not widely understood, except in restaurants or places specifically intended for tourists. However, Peruvians are generally accommodating to foreigners who are struggling to learn a few words and knowing some basic Spanish will go a long way.
The good news is that Peruvian Spanish is spoken very clearly and slowly compared to other Spanish-speaking countries. For this reason, Peru is considered one of the best places in the world to learn Spanish. If you’re still learning, you’ll find the local dialect easy to understand.
Where to stay
lime is enormous, and like many large cities in Latin America, you’ll see extreme income disparities depending on which district of the city you’re in. Generally speaking, districts on or adjacent to the coast, such as Miraflores or San Isidro, will be more exclusive and have less crime, while those inland will be more dangerous (avoid the Surquillo district!). Miraflores is without a doubt the best neighborhood to stay in for foreigners, especially if you can’t speak Spanish. Logistics-wise, you’ll be within walking distance of the beach, shopping and nightlife options, and tour buses that can take you to nearby attractions. Other good options would be Santiago de Surco, a wealthy suburban community, or the artsy, bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. However, if you are new to Peru or Latin America in general, do yourself a huge favor and stick with Miraflores.
Short-term rentals can be found on Airbnb, starting at around $50 per night. Flipkey.com tends to have lower prices, but fewer options. Reserve a spot before your trip for minimal headaches. You can also find MUCH cheaper options on craigslist or local apartment listings. Don’t be afraid to negotiate with a landlord for a lower rate. If you haven’t booked a room in advance, you can try staying at a nearby hostel while you do your research. Kokopelli Backpacker Hostel on Berlin Street is recommended for those looking for a balance between liveliness and peace and quiet.
Attractions in Lima
Take one of the Mirabus daytime tours in Lima. You’ll get a beautiful view of the Miraflores and San Isidro neighborhoods, as well as downtown’s historic sights like the Plaza de Armas and notable colonial-era buildings, churches, and museums. Take in the incredible view of the coastline along the Malecón and visit Larcomar, a shopping mall with shops, restaurants, nightclubs, and even a movie theater built into the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
Lima’s only arguable weakness is its beaches. With the possible exception of the Barranco neighborhood, Lima is not known for having the most beautiful beaches in the world. While they look beautiful when viewed from above, most are quite rocky with big waves. The water can also be surprisingly cold: the ocean currents that make Lima’s climate mild for its latitude also make the water quite cool. If surfing is your thing, the beaches of Lima can be a great option. If you prefer swimming, some of the nearby beaches mentioned below are a better option.
Near Lima
Take a look at the spectacular remains of Caral, approximately 2.5 hours outside of Lima and at 5,000 years old, the oldest ruins in the Americas. If the beach is your thing, visit Punta Hermosa, the Asia district (popular with Peruvians on summer vacations) or the laid-back town of Paracas, about 3.5 hours away by bus, where you can sunbathe and see the famous Ballestas Islands (commonly known as “the poor man’s Galapagos”). Just outside of Lima is the city of Callao, where you can visit the Real Felipe Fortress, the BAP Abato, a decommissioned Peruvian Navy submarine that is now a museum. Be sure to try an incredible pork rind sandwich at the Mercado del Callao. Callao is safe during the day, but can be dangerous at night, so it is recommended to return to Lima before dark.
food
Peruvian cuisine is truly world class. There are many excellent restaurants geared towards tourists serving amazing food. While you won’t walk away unsatisfied, you’ll still be paying about 3 times the regular price. On the famous Calle Las Pizzas (Pizza Street) you will find numerous options for fairly mediocre pizza at equally exorbitant prices. Instead, try some of the smaller places where the locals eat on the side streets next to Parque Kennedy. You can get a hearty three-course meal of authentic Peruvian food for as little as 10 soles (about $3 at the time of writing). The ceviche, of course, is not to be missed and the cuy (guinea pig) is an intriguing dish unique to this country, but it tends to be quite expensive (50-75 soles).
Night life
This is an area where Lima really shines. The best nightlife in the city is concentrated in the districts of Miraflores and Barranco. Miraflores is a bit more upscale, with most options concentrated around Parque Kennedy. Calle las Pizzas concentrates most of the nightclubs and pubs aimed at foreigners. The most popular places on Pizza Street are The Old Pub (an English-style pub popular with expats), Sabor Peruano, a nightclub that sees a mixed crowd of locals and backpackers 7 days a week. Sabor Peruano plays mainly EDM and around midnight it will switch to reggaeton and salsa. There’s also the much larger Sabor Perano VIP, which has a similar vibe but only draws a good crowd on the weekends. A few blocks away in the Larcomar shopping center is Gotica, a large nightclub popular with wealthy Peruvians. Saturday night is the best night to visit. On Calle Berlin is Houlihan’s Irish Bar, a popular hangout for sports expats from around the world and the only bar in the city that serves Guinness.
The other main option for nightlife is Barranco, about 15 minutes from Miraflores by taxi. Barranco, especially at night, is a bit rougher than Miraflores, but you won’t find any trouble here unless you’re looking for it. Be sure to visit Picas, a large and very popular nightclub just below the famous Bridge of Sighs. Disco Help attracts a younger crowd, and Hypnosis and Bierhaus, just off the main square, are also popular spots. Barranco also has the only brewery in the city: Barranco Brewing Company.
By far the coolest place in Barranco and possibly in all of Lima is Ayahuasca. While they don’t serve the psychedelic drink of the same name, they do offer several bars inside a large colonial-style mansion and a large outdoor patio in the back. Instead of a high-energy nightclub, Ayahuasca has a more relaxed lounge vibe. Each room has a slightly different feel and the food is outstanding. Whether you’re on the prowl, meeting up with friends, or looking for a quiet spot for a date, Ayahuasca is not to be missed.
Health
The fact is that Peru is a developing country and of all its major cities, Lima is really the only place in the country to receive top-notch medical care. The hospitals here are clean and provide excellent, modern health care services, for which you can expect to pay only a fraction of what you would in the United States. Food poisoning is fairly common among first-time visitors, but it’s easily avoided. Choose a clean and reputable restaurant and if you are looking for a cheap meal, it is actually recommended that you choose restaurants that are busier – the ingredients will be fresher as they are being used faster. Be especially careful with “chifa” (Peruvian Chinese food) no matter how much people recommend it. There are pharmacies (pharmacies) on almost every block for basic health needs.
taxis
Keep in mind that as sophisticated and exclusive as parts of Lima may seem, Peru as a whole is still a poor country and as a foreigner, some people here, especially taxi drivers, will try to take advantage of you. This is common in many developing countries and by no means unique to Peru, and with a little research, it can be easily avoided.
NEVER get in a taxi and tell the driver where you want to go, or your wallet will regret it later. Always tell the driver where you want to go and agree on the price before you get on. The first price the driver gives you is usually double what the locals pay, so counterattack with half that amount and always be ready to walk away. There are thousands of other taxis in Lima and taxi drivers often lower the price if you do this. Taxis will charge more on Friday and Saturday nights. For example, the trip between Miraflores and Barranco usually costs between 5 and 8 soles. On a Saturday, you may have to settle for paying 8-10. Going to and from the airport to Miraflores or the surrounding districts should cost you around 40-50 soles.
Is Lima right for you?
The parts of Lima recommended here combine the incredible cuisine, culture, and history of South America with plenty of first world comforts and conveniences. If you’re looking for a South American city to establish as a base of operations, it’s hard to go wrong with Lima.
